2024 Paparoa

Trip Report

After trying to get to the Paparoa track in 2022 before the track was closed due to slips we eventually made it in 2024. And it was amazing!

After a very long drive on the Monday we all descended on Punakaiki in light drizzle and calm seas. We moved into the Punakaiki Beach hostel for the night and enjoyed a nice but quite overpriced meal at the local tavern.

Tuesday morning had us up early and travelling through to Blackball for the start of the tramp. It was drizzling when the first load of trampers departed before Tim and Tony relocated the vehicles back to Punakaiki ready for us when we got out from the track. Rochelle joined Tim for the slog up the hill about 2 hours behind everyone else. A steady but scenic climb up the old bridle track got us to the Ces Clarke Hut which was nice and toasty in the rain that had started due to the others arriving earlier and a DoC worker lighting the fire earlier in the day.

Some games and hut banter closed off the long day with the sound of rain on the hut roof.

Wednesday morning dawned overcast but clear enough to get the view down towards Lake Brunner. Departing the track we continued the climb up to the Croesus knob which we side-tracked to ascend a grunt up with views down to the sunrise on Mt Cook to the far south. The wind was bitter and none of us lingered long on the top of the knob.

The track then sidled around the edge of the tops with views of the Tasman sea between the ridges running down to the coast. Faith lead the way storming ahead before being overtaken by Steve on the homeward stretch down to the hut.

Moonlight Tops hut was nice but with the howling wind a terrible draft came through the hut until early evening. Daniel got a roaring fire going and we were soon nice and warm.

The DoC Recreation ranger gave a good talk about the history of the track and the Pike29 memorial track that had just been opened.

More games and hut chatter before heading to bed for the night.

Miles, Cheryl and Dave were up early the next morning to get a head start for the Pike29 track. Cheryl and Dave were keen to get to the viewpoint whilst Miles and a young tramper planned to make it the whole additional 22km return on the sidetrack (a lofty aim).

The track was cold and windy again but glimpses of and from the escarpment were had by most of us. Quick lunch at the emergency shelter gave us a respite from the wind and cold before heading down the hill to the Pororari Hut for our final night.

This, in my opinion, was the nicest of the huts in location and cosiness. However Gerald had a small run in with a rat in the middle of the night which provided some light relief the next day.

More hut games, including Empires: one Daniel taught us in Ces Clarke Hut.

The trip out was probably the most scenic but equally tedious in length and track hardness on our weary feet. The lower Pororari Gorge was as spectacular as it had been promised to be.

A few of us then ventured just up the road for a walk into Cave Creek. It was a sombre visit knowing that 14 people had died enjoying themselves in the outdoors at this location.

Our final night at the Punakaiki Backpackers was a good one followed by a much better meal this time around at the tavern again.

Faith lead us all to McDonalds in Greymouth before the weary trampers all headed home in their various directions.

Information Links

• Official Paparoa Track Guide: https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets/documents/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/west-coast/paparoa-track-brochure.pdf
• Alternative website with some cool Youtube videos about the making of the Paparoa track: https://thepaparoa.co.nz/local-guide-to-the-paparoa-track/